Why Do Chickens Peck Each Other?

Why Do Chickens Peck Each Other?

Pecking is normal behaviour for chickens, but when it turns aggressive, it can leave your hens stressed, injured, or even dead. I’ve seen aggressive pecking happen in my own flock, and while it can be upsetting to witness, it’s usually something you can fix once you understand what’s causing it. In this post, I’ll explain why chickens peck each other, how to tell when it’s crossed the line, and what you can do to stop it.

Pecking is part of chicken behaviour

All chickens peck. It’s how beaked animals interact with their environment, test boundaries, and establish their social order. You’ll often notice the more dominant hens giving the others a sharp peck now and then. It’s not necessarily cruel, it’s just how they communicate.

That said, you should pay close attention when the pecking becomes more frequent or intense. Occasional scuffles are normal, but if one bird becomes the focus of repeated attention or starts losing feathers, it may be a sign of a bigger issue that needs dealing with.

When pecking becomes a problem

Pecking becomes a serious welfare issue if you see hens start to pluck feathers off each other, or the pecking draws blood. Chickens can quickly zero in on a weak or injured bird, and once they spot red or exposed skin, things can quickly get ugly.

Watch for signs like:

• Bald patches, especially around the vent, neck or back
• Blood, scabs or open wounds
• Pecked feathers scattered around the coop
• One bird being chased, cornered or excluded

If you spot blood, I recommend treating it immediately with an antiseptic spray like Battle’s Gential Violet. While any antiseptic will help the wound heal, the purple colouring disguises the redness of the wound, discouraging other hens from pecking it even more. This can make a real difference in helping the chicken recover quickly and preventing further bullying.

Common causes of aggressive pecking

Understanding what’s behind aggressive packing behaviour is the key to stopping it. Here are the main triggers I’ve come across:

1. Overcrowding

This is one of the most common causes. If your hens don’t have enough space, especially in the run, they can’t get away from each other, and pecking becomes inevitable. Essentially, they are creating space for themselves and defending it from other birds.

As a rule of thumb, I make sure mine have at least 4 square feet each in the coop and 10 square feet or more outdoors. More is always better.

2. Boredom

Bored chickens quickly become troublemakers. I’ve noticed that if they’re stuck in a bare run with nothing to do, they’ll start pecking each other out of frustration.

To keep things interesting, I hang up greens, scatter corn to encourage foraging, and even throw in a few old logs or perches. One of the best things I’ve used is a half cabbage on a string – it swings around and keeps them entertained for ages. It also helps if you can move the hens to another part of the garden where they can scratch around on fresh soil. Try moving the run to a different spot every now and then.

3. Nutritional issues

If hens aren’t getting enough protein, they might start pecking and pulling out other birds’ feathers as a source of food. This is because feathers are made of keratin, a type of protein. While it looks like aggression, it’s really a sign that something else isn’t right.

I feed a good-quality layers pellet with at least 16% protein and offer oyster shell grit separately for calcium. During the moult, I often switch them to a growers’ pellet or add a poultry tonic to their water for an extra boost.

4. Moulting

Moulting hens are vulnerable. Their skin is more exposed, and new feather quills are sensitive. Sometimes, other birds seem to find these new quills irresistible to peck.

I always keep a close eye during the moult. If I notice one getting picked on, I separate her early and treat any bare skin with gentian violet. Anti-peck sprays can also help, but I’ve found their effectiveness varies between flocks.

5. Stress

Chickens are creatures of habit. Change their routine, disturb their coop, or crowd them together, and you’ll often see the tension play out in feather pecking.

Stress comes in many forms – heat, loud noise, predators, or a coop that’s too bright or exposed. Chickens prefer a quiet, dim, sheltered place to roost and lay. If your hens are laying less or bickering more, something might be upsetting their routine.

Coops that are too hot in summer, poorly ventilated, or overcrowded can all trigger tension that spills over into pecking. Nest boxes should be dark and quiet, with at least one space per 4 or 5 birds. Minimising disturbance can go a long way towards calming the flock.

6. Self-pecking

Sometimes, feather loss isn’t caused by other birds at all. Chickens may peck at themselves due to irritation, discomfort or stress. The most common causes are:

• Parasites, such as red mite or lice
• Skin irritation from dirty bedding, ammonia, or broken feathers
• Anxiety or stress, especially in confined or overstimulated birds

If only one bird is affected and you haven’t seen others bothering her, check for signs of mites or lice (especially around the vent and under wings). Also inspect the coop for hygiene issues, and review their routine for anything that could be unsettling them.

If in doubt, treating for parasites and improving hygiene is a good first step.

7. Cockerel behaviour

If you keep a cockerel, some feather loss or rough treatment might not be pecking in the usual sense. During mating, roosters often grab the back of a hen’s neck or pin her down with their claws. This can lead to bald patches, broken feathers or even skin damage, especially if he has a favourite hen or if your flock has too few females.

That said, not all cockerel behaviour is harmless. If he starts drawing blood, chasing hens, or preventing others from feeding or roosting, then it’s crossed a line.

Poultry saddles can help protect hens from such behaviour, but in some cases, you may need to separate the rooster. If the behaviour is persistently aggressive and not mating-related, it might be time to reconsider whether he’s a good fit for your flock.

What I do to stop feather pecking

Here’s a list of things I regularly do to keep my flock happy and reduce the risk of pecking:

• Give them plenty of space inside and out
• Add enrichment to the run – swings, perches, logs, hanging greens
• Offer dust baths using a mix of soil, sand and wood ash. Read our dust baths guide.
• Check feed quality and protein levels, especially during moult
• Treat wounds promptly to prevent escalation
• Use anti-peck sprays or poultry saddles when needed
• Watch the flock closely during any major changes

I’ve learned to act quickly if I spot trouble. One winter, I had to separate a particularly aggressive hen after she started targeting a moulting bird. I set up a temporary run within sight of the others, and after a week apart, she’d forgotten the habit and reintegrated without fuss.

When nothing seems to work

Some birds just won’t stop. If pecking persists despite your best efforts, separating either the aggressor or the victim is the next step. I usually isolate the pecker if possible – but make sure they stay close enough to see the flock.

If reintroduction fails, a poultry saddle can protect vulnerable hens and give feathers time to regrow.

Final thoughts

Pecking is part of how chickens live, but it shouldn’t cause suffering. The key is to stay observant, step in early, and keep the flock enriched, well-fed and comfortable.

For me, the biggest breakthrough came when I realised how much boredom contributed to pecking. A few simple changes – a cabbage here, a dust bath there – made all the difference. These days, pecking still happens from time to time, but it rarely turns nasty.

Keep an eye out, stay hands-on, and your hens will thank you for it.