Egg Incubation And The Right Time To Do It

Egg Incubation And The Right Time To Do It

Hatching your own chicks can be a rewarding experience, whether you’re replenishing your flock, raising birds for specific traits or simply enjoying poultry keeping as a hobby. However, successful egg incubation depends on getting the timing, equipment and technique right.

Before you begin: Only fertilised eggs can develop into chicks. While hens lay eggs regardless of whether there’s a cockerel, those eggs will not hatch. To incubate your own, you’ll need a cockerel in the flock or source fertile eggs from a reputable breeder.

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Step-by-step guide to hatching chicks in an incubator

Step 1: Gather fertilised eggs

• Use freshly laid eggs from your own hens (with a cockerel) or buy fertilised eggs
• Store with the fat end pointing upwards at 10–15°C and turn once daily
• Incubate within 7 days of laying for the best hatch rate

Step 2: Prepare the incubator

An incubator mimics the warmth and humidity a hen would provide. There are many types, from manual to fully automatic. Whichever model you use, cleanliness and control are key.

What to include in the incubator setup:

• Internal thermometer and hygrometer to monitor temperature and humidity
• Water reservoir or tray to maintain humidity levels
• Egg turner (manual or automatic) if your incubator does not rotate eggs itself

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Before setting eggs:

• Clean and disinfect the incubator thoroughly
• Run it empty for 12–24 hours to confirm stable settings
• Set temperature to 37.5°C (99.5°F) and humidity to 45–55%

Step 3: Set the eggs

• Place eggs on their sides or upright with the fat end up
• Close the incubator gently and avoid unnecessary opening
• If using shipped eggs, let them rest upright for 12–24 hours before incubation

Step 4: Turn the eggs daily

• Turn eggs at least three times per day from day 1 to day 18
• Always turn an odd number of times daily to avoid the embryo resting on one side too long
• Stop turning after day 18 to allow chicks to position themselves for hatching

Step 5: Candle the eggs

Candling uses a bright light to check embryo development.

• First candling: Day 7 – look for visible veins and a dark spot
• Optional second candling: Day 14
• Remove any infertile or spoiled eggs

Step 6: Prepare for hatching

• On day 18, stop turning and raise humidity to 65–70%
• Avoid opening the incubator from this point onwards
• Chicks usually start pipping (cracking the shell) on day 20 and hatch around day 21

Step 7: Set up the brooder

A brooder is where your chicks will live after hatching. It must be warm, safe and dry to support their early development.

What to include in a brooder:

• A heat source, such as a heat lamp or electric brooder plate, to keep the temperature at 32°C (90°F) for the first week
• Non-slip bedding like paper towels or pine shavings (avoid newspaper, which is too slippery)
• A chick feeder filled with chick crumb (starter feed with at least 18–20% protein)
• A shallow water drinker with marbles or pebbles to prevent drowning

As chicks grow, reduce the temperature gradually by about 3°C per week until they are fully feathered (around 5–6 weeks old).

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Step 8: After hatching

• Leave chicks in the incubator until they are dry and fluffy
• Transfer to the warm brooder gently and monitor them closely
• Provide food and water immediately and watch for signs of stress or crowding

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Tips for success

• Avoid washing eggs, as this removes their protective coating
• Do not help chicks hatch unless they are clearly struggling and overdue (intervention can be risky)
• Expect hatch rates of 70–80% for fresh eggs and around 50% for shipped eggs
• Clean your incubator and brooder thoroughly between batches

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Disclaimer: This egg incubation article is for general guidance only and is not a substitute for veterinary or professional advice. Always follow your incubator manufacturer’s instructions and seek advice from experienced poultry keepers if needed.